Author Topic: W111 1965 220SEb "Restoration" Project  (Read 1565 times)

LWB250

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Re: W111 1965 220SEb "Restoration" Project
« Reply #90 on: June 12, 2019, 05:44:58 AM »
Hi Dan, nice work as usual.
Some questions about the job on the rear end please:
- To get the 'rhino horn'/central support arm off (and the tip of it out of the trunk), did you have to lower the whole assembly down, but without removing the trailing arms and springs? If so, did the diff drop right down to its max limit of travel at the bottom, or did the transverse centre spring stop it from doing this? Did you use a jack under the main body of the diff to control the height?
   - I ask as i got told to never let the rear end sag in the middle with its axle tubes up as high as possible with load on them, as it could damage something called the sliding joint. But the rearws are so heavy, i have never figured out how to avoid it. I have swapped a few rear ends out, but have never seemed to have damaged anything.
- With the centering rod, did you have trouble getting the new bushes on the end where it joins the body? I found that the new ones that were so thick compared to the old compressed ones, that i couldn't get enough threaded rod through the mount on the body to tighten it up. You mention it, but don't say how you solved it - or did jacking up the diff do it?  I frigged around with clamps and really struggled. i can't even remember how i succeeded in the end - perhaps i have erased my memory, like women do with the pain of childbirth?! So do you have any tips for that part of the job?
- what is "Mercedes black sealant"? Any pictures, and where did you get it? Is there a generic equivalent?
I see you want to change the bushes on the trailing arms. That can be a bugger too, getting the front on over the mounting point on the car without popping the new bush out of the trailing arm. Sometimes it has gone easy for me, other times i have taken a whole day and needed a mate to help. Good luck with it. Considering you still have to do this, apart from the extra work to take the brake hoses off and bleed brakes, do you not think it would have been easier to pull the whole rear end out and do everything without lying under the car?

Cheers, Drew in Oz

Sorry, Drew, just saw your questions...

Yes, I did lower the differential down as far as it would go without removing the springs or trailing arms. And I used a floor jack to support it the whole time. I was surprised when I started moving the support amor around that it had enough range of movement to come off of the pivot rod. No doubt much of this was due to not only the lowering of th differential, but the rubber bushing having been removed.

I didn't change any of the positions of the nuts on the centering rod, so when I placed the new bushings on it I found that the rod barely projected beyond the top of the outer bushing, and even then the threaded potion wasn't exposed. I used my floor jack to raise the differential and apply some pressure to the centering rod and bushings, exposing enough of the threads to get the nut started with the metal cup in place.  Once started, it was a simple matter of tightening the nut to the original position and compressing the bushings.

The Mercedes black sealant is part number 003-989-98-20-10 and is the equivalent to Loctite 5970, I believe. Mercedes uses it for just about every metal to metal application. It does need time to set up or "skin", so you can't be in a hurry to use it.

When I first got the car I changed the swing arm bushing at the body on the left side. It wasn't hard to do, but did require some assistance to get everything lined up and in position to reassemble it. At the time I hadn't considered replacing all the rear axle/suspension rubber bits, only this one, as it was in pretty bad shape. If I wasn't concerned about opening up a big can of worms by messing with my brake lines or being very limited in the space I have to work in, I would have dropped the whole rear axle to do the work. It wasn't as bad as I expected, but would certainly have been easier to do out of the car, without question.

Hope this helps.

Dan

drew56cus

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Re: W111 1965 220SEb "Restoration" Project
« Reply #91 on: June 15, 2019, 04:02:35 AM »
Thanks for the reply Dan.
I got this gizmo turned up to make it easier to get the front of the trailing arms fitted up. It has a threaded hole in the bottom that I screw onto the body, then lube it up, and it helps the rubber slip up and onto the mounting point without coming out of the trailing arm.

Cheers, Drew
Not sure if the pic attached... Not sure how to do it either!
A few W111 and W112 projects...