W111 1965 220SEb "Restoration" Project

[LWB250]

I knew the AC would be an easy win as long as everything was intact.

As I knew the system was empty, I checked the oil before I fired anything up. It had plenty.  None of the fittings were disturbed, so I didn't expect any issues there.  I wish I had a manifold gauge set or hoses that fit R12 fittings, as currently I just have an adapter that will fit the suction (low) side.  I can work with that, but it's nice to be able to see both sides of the system.

I was considering a Sanden compressor swap, but for now I'll leave well enough alone and run it as it's currently configured.  I was going to get the hoses rebuilt or replaced, but for now I'll leave everything alone and see how it does. The minute it stops working I'll tear it down and get everything done I had intended, mainly hose rebuild/replacement.

While I'm in no hurry for warm weather, I'm interested to see how good of a job the FrigiKing does in that greenhouse of a passenger cabin.

Dan

[Squiggle Dog]

While I'm in no hurry for warm weather, I'm interested to see how good of a job the FrigiKing does in that greenhouse of a passenger cabin.

I'm interested, too. My W116 300SD is running a Sanden with a 16X22" parallel-flow condenser and R-12 and it's super cold, probably better than a lot of new cars. The W111 has a narrower radiator opening, so there's not as much room for the condenser. I might end up using two parallel-flow condensers in a W111 (one in front of the other) and running them parallel so the hose splits into a Y and the refrigerant goes through both condensers at the same time, effectively doubling the surface area.

[LWB250]

As long as you keep the original system intact and use R12 it should make ice cubes. Convert an R12 system to R134a and you need that parallel flow condenser to get the efficiency up to what it was with R12.

I’ve run the propane/butane based “environmentally friendly” refrigerants in these systems with good results.  The only thing you really have to do is change or rebuild the hoses to barrier style materials so you don’t get leakage through the hoses at the molecular level. When that occurs, the ratio of gases changes over time and the efficiency of the refrigerant drops off. At that point there is no fix short of evacuating and refilling with a fresh charge.

Dan

[LWB250]

Today's blog update - lots of little detail items.

http://penoff.com/1965_220SEb_Blog/Entries/2019/1/9_Its_all_in_the_details.html

Dan

[Squiggle Dog]

You can probably get a good used chrome mirror base fairly easily if you'd prefer one over a black one. I got a new piece of vacuum tubing for my roommate's car's distributor, but it was missing the ferrule, so I have to both figure out where to get one and also how to install it, but apparently it just squishes into shape when you tighten the compression nut?

[LWB250]

You can probably get a good used chrome mirror base fairly easily if you'd prefer one over a black one. I got a new piece of vacuum tubing for my roommate's car's distributor, but it was missing the ferrule, so I have to both figure out where to get one and also how to install it, but apparently it just squishes into shape when you tighten the compression nut?

I'm perfectly happy with the redesigned black one.  It's a lot more substantial than the original.  And since I'll probably go with a black dash pad it's a nice accent.

Dealer part or aftermarket supplier.  Mercedes part number N003862004000.

Dan

[LWB250]

Blog post for yesterday's work:

http://penoff.com/1965_220SEb_Blog/Entries/2019/1/12_Whats_the_Diff.html

Dan

[tram]

Dan- just FYI- lots of these rear ends leak because they are overfilled. Also, lots of them seem low when checked but aren't.

The reason for this is the angle of the dangle. When you are changing diff fluid the car really needs to be level and the rear wheels driven up on ramps- driven so they're not "kicked in" like they are when you just let the rear end down stationary off a jack.

The car needs to be level front to rear so you don't have a bunch of fluid "piled up" against the lower front (overfilled), and the rear wheels need to be at driving level so you aren't completely filling up dangling axles (overfilled).

By the same token, a car that actually has the proper amount of hypoid oil in the diff can SEEM way low when it's drained under the same conditions- dangling axles/ front end lower than the rear. In addition... you're leaving a lot of the old oil behind doing it with just the rear end up and/ or axles dangling.

[tram]

Really love the color, BTW. It seems to be coming out really nice!

[LWB250]

Thanks, tram!

I'll be checking it again this afternoon on level ground so that I can drain out any overfilled fluid if I did get too much in there....I did fill it with the suspension under load (on the wheels.)

The paint is probably a 10 footer.  It was repainted at some point in time in the past, and not that well, or it was done in sections.  Some of the doors are orange peeled and at the "break" on the sides there are a couple of places where it looks like its lifting because someone used that point as an edge.  I didn't get super aggressive with it when I detailed the finish since it wasn't the original.  Original single stage finishes can be seriously abused, but not knowing what the current layer of paint is like I chose to be gentle and avoid damage.

Dan

[LWB250]

Today's blog update:

http://penoff.com/1965_220SEb_Blog/Entries/2019/1/13_Leatherique_Day!.html

And since tram got me all worked up about possibly overfilling my differential (just kidding - thanks for the reminder, it's been 20 years since i've done one of these) I also opened up the differential fill plug while the car was level and loaded and let any excess gear old drain out. I got maybe 1/2 cup, so that's a good thing. Thanks, tram!

Dan

[Evlkarl]

Great to see it is moving along. I would love to have another toy to play with and bring it like new condition but when I think about how much money I blow over the years on all my Pontons Finnies and W114 Couple I probably could retire now.  Sadly it is not cheap anymore tackling any restoration project no matter what Brand you are interested in.

The link for the chrome parts that you just posted confirms what I was saying.

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Mercedes-W111-W112-Chrome-Hinten-A1117380322-0422-Zierstab-L-R-/264125630607?oid=263921704477

[LWB250]

Update for yesterday:

http://penoff.com/1965_220SEb_Blog/Entries/2019/1/20_On_the_Shelf.html

Dan

[LWB250]

Update for today:

http://penoff.com/1965_220SEb_Blog/Entries/2019/1/20_Soap_and_Water.html

Dan

[LWB250]

No rest for the wicked:

http://penoff.com/1965_220SEb_Blog/Entries/2019/1/22_Dusty_Day.html

http://penoff.com/1965_220SEb_Blog/Entries/2019/1/23_Coolant_Day.html

Dan