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Messages - Aaron H

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1
Mechanical / Re: 250SE (W108) Tachometer Install
« on: February 20, 2020, 10:37:36 AM »
Ok, so installation is time consuming, but straight forward.  However, you must first know that there were tachometers made for 4, 6, and 8 cylinder engines.  While all versions will fit in the clock opening, they are not interchangeable.  For example, if you install a 4 cylinder tach in a 3.5, 4.5, or 6.3 car the reading on the tach will be off by half.  Since the 4 and 6 cylinder version tachs are either hard to come by or stupid expensive most people are ok with using a V-8 tach in their 6 cylinder.  Also, bear in mind that the v-8 tachs will have a different red line for the different v-8 engines.  The same for 4 and  cylinder engines. 

Installation involves the use of a bipolar plug to connect the tach to wires coming from the coil to the tach.  Wires are to be run through a rubber grommet in located in the firewall.  See picture below for wiring explanation. 

EVkarl, the W108/W109 instrument clusters are not held in by the rubber pad around the outside of it.  The rubber band is only there for insulating and anit vibration purposes.  They're held in with a plastic knurled nut on the back side of the cluster.  In your picture do you see the metal rod that runs across the back of the cluster?  See the threaded rod protruding out away from the cluster?  This is what the plastic knurled nut screws on to. The plastic knurled nut looks much like the plastic nuts that hold the tail light bulb holders on to the tail light housing.  Access to the rear of the instrument cluster to remove the plastic knurled nut is difficult, and requires small hands and arms. 

2
Cosmetic / Re: W111 coupe front seats
« on: May 27, 2019, 08:58:47 AM »
-040 Black paint work

-204 interior trim code, HellRot (bright red) this is the brightest colored red that was available, leather color code 1088.  Interior trim code 204 also calls for plain Rosewood veneer for the wood on the dash and around the inside of the windshield. 

-328 Wiper with intermittent action (push button on floor that also actuates windshield washer)

-401 Bucket seats up front

-461 Instrumentation in English

-551 Ivory colored steering wheel

-613 Headlamps asymmetric, left-lane traffic

-650 Tire version for England, Firestone brand

-683 Fire extinguisher and lighted "D" plaque sign on back of car. 

This car was originally a European model, and apparently spend a lot of time in Germany even though it was delivered to England.  Hence, the lighted "D" plaque on the rear of the car. 

Hope this was helpful. 



3
Cosmetic / Re: Coupe side windows
« on: May 27, 2019, 08:39:36 AM »
Which side windows are you referring to?  The wing/vent windows in the front doors, or the rear windows for the back seat area? 

4
Cosmetic / Re: W111 coupe front seats
« on: March 19, 2019, 11:56:35 AM »
The data card will not tell you such information as to whether a car had 4 or 5 pleats in the seats.  It'll only tell you the options, serial numbers for drive train, front and rear axles, key codes, interior trim code, exterior paint color, etc. 

Your car left the factory with 4 pleats in the seats.  That is not a guess.  It is a matter of fact.  However, there were 5 different shades of red leather offered during this time, so be sure you know which color you have.  This is where the data card will coming handy!  :) 

5
Off-Topic / Re: Blau
« on: March 08, 2019, 04:20:02 PM »
How is this 3.5 coupe` a 1968 year model?  They didn't start making them until November of 1969.  The same applies for the low grill 6 cylinder models, as well. 

6
Off-Topic / Re: Off Topic- W108, but not really...
« on: March 05, 2019, 10:47:36 AM »
Hmmmmm.......could it be because you installed the drive train that the rear axle was intended to be paired with?  ;) 

7
Yikes! pulling the pinion gear flange? Yeah, I think this will get set aside for completion well into the future. I'm certainly capable of doing this, but it's a pretty substantial job, probably more than I want to take on any time soon.

So I can't just unbolt the cap bolt and slide the tubular bushing off of the rod?

And your thoughts about the stiffer upper mount for the metal arm?

Thanks!

Dan

Dan, look closely at your rear axle again.  You'll see that the flange that holds the pinion seal in has to come off before the arm and bushing can slide off.  In order to do this, the pinion flange that the driveshaft connects to must come off......which means the special slotted socket must be procured, and backlash reset afterward with a new crush sleeve. 

No comment on the stiffer upper bushing.  A 220se engine doesn't put out enough torque or horsepower to merit a stiffer bushing, and I can't imagine it making the car ride any better.  A stiffer bushing may help with lessening body squat upon acceleration, but again, the M-127 isn't powerful enough to cause a problem like that.  I'm guessing that's why the W112, W100, and W109 cars had different/stiffer bushings in this location.....because they offered higher torque and horsepower output. 

8
Mechanical / Re: Fuel Return
« on: March 03, 2019, 07:20:25 PM »
Hey Aaron, is there anywhere in particular that you insert the resistor? Where do you find out what resistance the original system vs an alternative had? I put some different gauges in one of my finnies but had to guess when i would run out of petrol...

In the past when I have refreshed my cars, I bought one of the fuel tank repair kits from POR15. I made up some corks and stoppers for all the various holes, flushed out the tank as per their instructions, and then put in their thick sealing paint. You have to make sure you don't block any tubes or holes off, so i used compressed air to blow all the lines out before the paint set. It took perhaps 5 hours work over a few days but was a lot cheaper than a new tank.

Cheers, Drew
The resistor is in the rear of the fuel gauge itself.  You simply read the order of the colored stripes on it.  That'll tell you what the current resistance is of the resistor.  As far as which one to use for modification.....again, you can either do some simple math using Ohm's law, or spend a lot of time putting different ones in and seeing what works and what doesn't. 

The re-sealing idea for the fuel tanks.......this is a short lived repair.  Don't count on that holding up long term. 

9
I wonder why someone would paint an aluminum cylinder head black?  That is the most bizarre thing I've heard in quite a long time. haha

10
Dan, if the axle is lowered enough for the trunk mounted arm to clear the car, then after removal of the large cap bolt on the end of the tube and flange that holds the pinion seal the arm should slide off of the metal tube.  However, the rear axle pretty much has to come out of the car to do this job.  You'll need the slotted socket to remove the pinon gear flange slotted nut, and you'll need a new crushing sleeve to reset the pinion to ring gear lash. 

After the metal trunk arm is removed from the rear axle, only then can the tubular bushing be removed and replaced.  This bushing also has a particular set position it must be in.  While the arm is off, you might as well renew the rubber boot between the axle halves.....but with a solid one.  You'll be opening a can of worms doing this job, but it's necessary all these years later. You won't regret it!  :) 

The job that instructs how to renew the tubular bushing will not be in the regular maintenance manual book.  This job is in the big 3 volume set....a set that took me 15 years to find all three volumes of.  However, I'm certain that the information can be found online.  I've never look, as I detest online repair manuals. 

The measurement you're interested in is distance "a" depicted in the picture below.  As you can see, the job is involved, and isn't easy or simple.  However, if you're comfortable with your aptitudes then go for it!  :) 

Edit......the cast iron mounting arm that goes up in to the trunk MUST be at a 90 degree right angle relative to the left side axle tube when taking the above measurements. This is done with the rear axle assembly sitting on a flat and level surface.  Otherwise the set up will be skewed.



11
As I found out, the 220b also has a cast iron head vs. aluminum, and the seat backs are fixed in place so they can't recline. In addition to what Aaron says, the same grille that fits all W110, W111, and W112 chassis also fits late production pontons.

No.....I'm 100% certain that all M-180 engines had an aluminum cylinder head.  All gasoline engines from the early 1950's forward had aluminum cylinder heads.  Only the diesels had cast iron cylinder heads. 

12
EVKARL, there was no such model as a 230b or a 230Sb.  It was a 230 (W110) or 230S (W111).  Nothing more.  Only the 220 models had a "b" after them to differentiate them from the previous W187 and W128 chassis.  Also, all W110, W111, and W112 had a chromium plated cowl vent grill from production start until production end.  The anodized aluminum cowl vent grills didn't appear until 1966, but only on the W108/W109 cars.  All three models used the same part number chrome plated grill, as well.  111-830-02-18.

13
Parts / Re: New Sedan Dashboard Pads Now Available!
« on: February 25, 2019, 09:29:45 PM »
RTW also charges double and triple higher than list.  They sell dash pads for W116, W123, and R107 that they get from the same fella, and they charge something like $1,200-$1,500.  Last fall I ordered a new dome light for a late W108, and they charged $220, but full list was only $174....ish.  I approached them thinking it was a mistake, but was told that they had no control over pricing.  What does that even mean?! 

14
I can't directly answer your question without doing some experimenting, but you would not believe how many people contest the existence of a 220b, and if they do believe they exist you can't convince them that it's a W111 chassis.  They all demand it's a W110.  :/

15
Mechanical / Re: Fuel Return
« on: February 13, 2019, 03:15:24 PM »
Yeah, I know the tanks are expensive, but someone has lied to you regarding price.  They retail for only $1,500, and they wholesale for $1,060.  So for around $600 more you could have a new one.  I'm always happy to extend my wholesale cost to you!  :)

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